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Sicily

A timeless crossroads of the Mediterranean, the stunning island of Sicily captivates visitors with its rich tapestry of landscapes and cultural wonders.

1. Cattedrale di Palermo

Palermo’s cathedral is a striking mosaic of architectural styles, featuring geometric motifs, ziggurat-style battlements, maiolica-tiled domes, and blind arches. Despite centuries of aesthetic disruptions through repeated modifications, it still stands as a remarkable testament to Sicily’s distinctive Arab-Norman architectural tradition. The interior, grand in scale but largely unadorned, houses some of its most fascinating elements: the royal Norman tombs (immediately on the left upon entry), the treasury – home to the gem-encrusted 13th-century crown of Constance of Aragon – and sweeping panoramic views from the roof.

Construction of the cathedral began in 1184 under the directive of Archbishop Walter of the Mill (Gualtiero Offamiglio), an Englishman and former tutor to William II. With immense power and an unlimited budget, Walter commissioned the cathedral as a response to the rising prominence of Monreale’s cathedral, which he perceived as a threat to his influence. He selected the site of a former 9th-century mosque, itself built over a chapel. A remnant of the mosque – a column with an inscription from the Koran – can still be seen at the southern porch. The sheer scale and grandeur of the cathedral’s exterior reflected the intense power dynamics between Church and monarchy during the era. Ironically, Walter passed away in 1191, never witnessing the cathedral’s completion nor basking in its glory.

Over the centuries, the cathedral underwent several modifications—some elevating its beauty, others detracting from it. One celebrated addition is Antonio Gambara’s 15th-century triple-arched portico, a Catalan Gothic masterpiece that took two centuries to finish. In contrast, Ferdinando Fuga’s dome, constructed between 1781 and 1801, is considered a less graceful intervention. Fortunately, Fuga’s influence did not mar the eastern side, where the intricate interlacing patterns from Walter’s original design still survive. The southwest façade, crafted during the 13th and 14th centuries, showcases exquisite local Gothic craftsmanship.

Visitors enter the cathedral through Gambara’s magnificent arches, flanked by gardens and a statue of Santa Rosalia, one of Palermo’s beloved patron saints. Above the arches, an intarsia panel dating to around 1296 portrays the tree of life within an Islamic-inspired geometric design made up of twelve roundels featuring fruits, humans, and animals.

Inside, the Monumental Area on the left side holds the tombs of some of Sicily’s most renowned Norman kings, including Roger II and Frederick II of Hohenstaufen, along with Henry VI and William II. The cathedral’s treasury, though modest in size, contains precious Norman-era artifacts and religious relics. Among them, the crown of Constance of Aragon is particularly extraordinary—a dazzling piece of fine gold filigree studded with jewels, crafted by Sicilian artisans. Other unusual relics include Santa Rosalia’s tooth and ashes, preserved in ornate silver reliquaries.

2. Valley of the Temples

Sicily’s most captivating archaeological treasure is the ancient city of Akragas, now known as the Valley of the Temples. Dominating the landscape is the remarkably preserved Tempio della Concordia, one of several ridge-top temples that once guided homebound sailors with their majestic silhouettes. Spanning 13 square kilometres and located 3 km south of Agrigento, the site is divided into eastern and western zones. Main entrances and parking areas are located at the southwestern Porta V and the northeastern corner near the Temple of Hera.

Eastern Zone

If time is limited, focus on the eastern zone, home to the site’s most iconic and best-preserved temples. Beginning with the Temple of Hera (Tempio di Hera), a 5th-century BC structure perched dramatically at the ridge’s edge, you’ll find its colonnade largely intact despite damage from a medieval earthquake. A long sacrificial altar still stands beside it.

From Hera, the path leads westward, passing a gnarled 800-year-old olive tree and Byzantine tombs carved into the ancient city walls, eventually arriving at the Temple of Concordia (Tempio della Concordia). Built in 430 BC and nearly untouched by time, this masterpiece inspired the UNESCO logo. Restored in 1748, it remains a symbol of ancient Greek architectural brilliance.

The last temple in the eastern zone, Tempio di Ercole (Temple of Hercules), is the oldest, dating to the late 6th century BC. Although much of it has collapsed, eight of its original 38 columns have been re-erected, giving visitors a glimpse of its former grandeur.

Nearby, a smaller structure atop a high base draws the eye — the so-called Tomba di Terone (Tomb of Theron). Though traditionally linked to the ancient ruler Theron, it actually dates to 75 BC, centuries after his reign.

Western Zone

In the western zone, the most prominent feature is the vast ruin of the Temple of Zeus (Tempio di Giove). Had it been completed, it would have been the largest Doric temple ever built, spanning 112 by 56 meters with columns towering 20 meters high. Construction was halted when the Carthaginians sacked Akragas, and an earthquake later brought the unfinished structure to ruin.

A short walk away, four columns rise from the Temple of the Dioscuri, a 5th-century BC temple that was toppled by an earthquake and partially reconstructed in the 19th century. Behind it lies the Sanctuary of the Chthonic Deities (Santuario delle Divine Chtoniche), a sacred area featuring small altars and buildings dating back to the 6th century BC.

Tucked into a nearby natural hollow is the Giardino della Kolymbetra, a serene garden filled with olive and citrus trees. With over 300 plant species identified and shaded picnic spots scattered throughout, it offers a peaceful retreat amid ancient ruins.

3. Duomo di Cefalù

Cefalù’s cathedral stands as a crowning jewel of Sicily’s Arab-Norman heritage, rivalled only by Monreale’s Cathedral and Palermo’s Cappella Palatina in grandeur. Dominating the central apse is a majestic image of Cristo Pantocratore (Christ All Powerful), the focal point of an extraordinary series of Byzantine mosaics—Sicily’s oldest and best-preserved, predating those at Monreale by two to three decades.

Depicted with a serene, compassionate gaze, Christ holds an open Bible inscribed in both Latin and Greek. Surrounding him are mosaic groupings that include the Virgin flanked by four archangels dressed in the ceremonial robes of Byzantine officials, adding to the mosaic’s imperial aura.

Inside the cathedral, 16 marble columns—each topped with Roman capitals believed to have been sourced from the Tempio di Diana on La Rocca—line the nave, adding a classical touch to the sacred space.

According to legend, King Roger II commissioned the cathedral in the 12th century to honour a vow made after surviving a violent storm at sea near Cefalù. However, historians suggest a more political motive: Roger sought to assert his authority and counterbalance the growing power of the Palermitan archbishopric, which had strong ties to the papacy. Building a grand cathedral in a distant coastal town was a strategic move to signal his dominion and deter opposition. Unsurprisingly, the cathedral’s architecture has a fortress-like character.

The cathedral’s twin pyramid towers, framed dramatically by the cliffs of La Rocca, can be admired from Piazza del Duomo—an ideal setting for a coffee or aperitivo. For a more immersive experience, climb the towers themselves. Opened to the public for the first time in 2019, the towers offer sweeping views of Cefalù, the Tyrrhenian Sea, and a unique, close-up look at the Cristo Pantocratore mosaic from within the apse. A special €5 ticket at the entrance grants access to the towers and this privileged viewpoint.

Another €5 ticket allows entry to the treasury and cloisters. The treasury displays an impressive collection of liturgical garments and intricate metalwork, while the cloisters, supported by elegant Arab-Norman arches and ancient columns, are a highlight in their own right. The finely sculpted capitals feature a mix of sacred and secular imagery—including acrobats, Noah’s Ark, and a curious pair of crocodiles—offering a glimpse into the medieval imagination.

4. Parco Archeologico della Neapolis

For lovers of classical history, Syracuse’s greatest treasure is its Archaeological Park of Neapolis, home to the luminous Teatro Greco. Originally constructed in the 5th century BC and later rebuilt in the 3rd century BC, this 16,000-seat amphitheatre once hosted the final plays of the great tragedian Aeschylus—including The Persians, performed here in his presence. Today, from early May to early July, the theatre comes alive once more during the annual season of classical drama.

Just beside the theatre lies the atmospheric Latomia del Paradiso, a vast and steep limestone quarry that supplied stone for ancient Syracuse. Now dotted with citrus and magnolia trees and threaded with catacombs, it also served as a grim prison for 7,000 Athenian survivors after their defeat in 413 BC. The quarry’s most famous feature is the Orecchio di Dionisio (Ear of Dionysius), a 23-metre-high cave that stretches 65 metres into the cliff. Named by Caravaggio, legend holds that the tyrant Dionysius exploited its remarkable acoustics to secretly eavesdrop on prisoners.

Beyond this section of the park lies the Anfiteatro Romano, a 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre once used for gladiator fights and chariot races. Much of it was destroyed in the 16th century when the Spanish quarried its stones to build Ortygia’s fortifications. Nearby is the Ara di Gerone II, an enormous sacrificial altar from the 3rd century BC dedicated to Hieron II, where as many as 450 oxen could be sacrificed at once.

Getting There:
To reach the park, take the Sd’A Trasporti minibus 2 from Molo Sant’Antonio, just west of the main bridge into Ortygia (€1, 15 minutes; tickets available on board). On foot, the park is about a 30-minute walk from Ortygia. If you’re driving, some free parking is available along Viale Augusto, though it can be limited.

Visitor Info:
There are two ticket offices: one at the corner of Via Cavallari and Viale Augusto, opposite the main entrance, and another along the path that leads directly to the ruins. Between this second ticket point and the Roman amphitheatre, a café offers a welcome break during your visit.

5. Cappella Palatina

Commissioned by Roger II in 1130, the Cappella Palatina is the crown jewel of Palermo’s cultural heritage and its most visited attraction. Nestled on the middle level of the Palazzo dei Normanni’s elegant three-tiered loggia, the chapel dazzles with a breathtaking fusion of golden mosaics, inlaid marble floors, and a remarkable wooden muqarnas ceiling—a honeycomb-like masterpiece of Arabic craftsmanship that perfectly illustrates the cultural confluence of Norman Sicily.

Practical tip: Expect queues, and be aware that visitors wearing shorts, short skirts, or low-cut tops will be turned away.

Step inside and you’ll be immersed in a space of astounding beauty. The entire interior glows with the shimmer of precious stones, creating an atmosphere of both spiritual and artistic wonder. The mosaics, primarily crafted by Byzantine Greek artisans invited to Palermo by Roger II around 1140, are exceptionally refined—capturing human expression, movement, and storytelling with delicate precision. The dome’s image of Cristo Pantocratore (Christ All Powerful) surrounded by angels is especially powerful. Most of the mosaic work focuses on Old Testament narratives, though some panels allude to Palermo’s significant role in the Crusades. A few later mosaics, such as the Virgin and Saints beneath the central Christ figure, lack the same finesse, but they do little to detract from the chapel’s overall splendor.

Beyond the mosaics, the muqarnas ceiling deserves special attention. Its intricate, stalactite-like carvings—rare in Christian architecture—have even sparked speculation about Roger II’s possible secret conversion to Islam. The marble inlay on the walls also reveals clear Islamic influences, while the floor, composed of exquisitely carved marble, would have been as valuable in the 12th century as gemstones—its historical worth is almost incalculable.

Note: The chapel may close early or partially for special events, so it’s wise to check the official website before visiting.

6. Galleria Regionale della Sicilia

Set within the elegant 15th-century Palazzo Abatellis, this superb art museum—widely considered Palermo’s finest—offers a captivating journey through Sicilian art from the Middle Ages to the 18th century. Among its most compelling treasures is the haunting Trionfo della Morte (Triumph of Death), a vast and enigmatic fresco by an unknown artist. It depicts Death as a skeletal figure, astride a gaunt horse, scythe in hand, mowing down victims in a chilling allegory of mortality.

Beneath the hooves of Death’s horse lie the privileged elite of Palermo, painted with an almost grotesque extravagance, while the poor and destitute watch from the margins—a stark reminder of medieval society’s fragility. Carefully restored and displayed in its own dedicated space on the ground floor, the fresco is both visually striking and deeply thought-provoking.

The museum houses many other important works that collectively chart the evolution of Sicilian artistic identity. Chief among them is Antonello da Messina’s iconic L’Annunciata (Virgin Annunciate), a 15th-century masterpiece celebrated for its serene composition and the subtle interplay of Italian and Flemish influences.

The gallery’s exhibition layout, designed in 1957 by renowned Italian architect Carlo Scarpa, makes full use of the Catalan Gothic architecture of the palazzo, creating a setting that is as beautiful as the works it contains.

7. Ragusa Ibla

Ragusa Ibla is a delight to explore, its maze of narrow lanes winding through weathered stone palazzi and opening unexpectedly onto sunlit piazzas. Getting lost here is part of the charm—but no matter which turn you take, all roads seem to lead back to the heart of the town: Piazza Duomo, a stunning square anchored by the majestic cathedral.

Facing the piazza on Corso XXV Aprile is the elegant Palazzo Arezzo di Trifiletti, an aristocratic residence built between the 17th and early 19th centuries. Guided tours reveal its show-stopping ballroom, adorned with rare late-18th-century Neapolitan majolica tiles and radiant 19th-century frescoes that have remarkably never required restoration.

Directly opposite, Via Novelli leads to the intimate Teatro Donnafugata, a 99-seat gem that mirrors the grandeur of an Italian opera house in miniature. It’s a highlight of the A Porte Aperte walking tour through Ragusa Ibla.

Continuing down Via Novelli brings you to Via Orfanotrofio, home to Cinabro Carrettieri, the vibrant workshop of master Sicilian cart makers Biagio Castilletti and Damiano Rotella, internationally acclaimed for their intricate craftsmanship. The street curves back to Corso XXV Aprile, where you’ll encounter the elegant Chiesa di San Giuseppe, designed by Gagliardi and topped with a graceful dome featuring Sebastiano Lo Monaco’s fresco Gloria di San Benedetto (1793).

A short walk downhill, just beside the entrance to the Giardino Ibleo, lies the Gothic-Catalan portal of the ruined Chiesa di San Giorgio Vecchio. The carved lunette above the door captures a vivid bas-relief of St George slaying the dragon.

At the far end of the quarter, the Chiesa delle Santissime Anime del Purgatorio stands as one of the few churches to have withstood the devastating 1693 earthquake. Inside, don’t miss Francesco Manno’s evocative Anime in Purgatorio (Souls in Purgatory, 1800), a powerful centerpiece at the main altar.

8. Duomo

Syracuse’s cathedral, rising from the remnants of a 5th-century BC Greek temple to Athena, is a striking fusion of ancient and medieval faiths. The original Doric columns, still clearly visible both inside and outside, speak to its classical origins. The temple was transformed into a Christian church in the 7th century, during the time when St Paul brought Christianity to the island.

Its most dramatic feature is the baroque façade, added between 1728 and 1753 by Andrea Palma in the wake of the devastating 1693 earthquake. Atop the structure, a statue of the Virgin Mary now stands where a golden figure of Athena once guided Greek sailors home across the Mediterranean.

The temple’s fame stretched far beyond Sicily in antiquity—Cicero himself remarked on its splendor during a visit to Ortygia in the 1st century BC. As you step inside, look to the right for a remarkable baptismal font: a Greek krater (a large ceremonial vase), repurposed and embellished with seven bronze lions dating back to the 13th century.

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