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Sardinia

Just beyond Sardinia’s glamour lies an island steeped in myth and tradition, where breathtaking landscapes and unforgettable cuisine await.

1. Santuario & Basilica di Nostra Signora di Bonaria

Perched atop Bonaria Hill, about 1km southeast of Via Roma, this revered religious complex is a major pilgrimage site. Visitors from around the world come to the serene 14th-century Gothic sanctuary to pray before Nostra Signora di Bonaria—a statue of the Virgin Mary and Christ said to have miraculously calmed a storm and saved a ship’s crew. To the right of the sanctuary, accessible via a connecting door, the grand basilica still serves as a landmark for sailors returning home.

The sanctuary was once part of a fortified compound built by the Aragonese Mercedari monks. In 1323, as the Spanish sought to seize Cagliari from the Pisans, they established a camp on the fresh, breezy slopes of Montixeddu—soon dubbed Bonaria for its “good air.” Over the course of a three-year siege, the camp evolved into a fortress complete with its own church.

Today, little remains of that fortress beyond a Gothic portal, a truncated bell tower that once served as a watchtower, and the church itself—home to the venerated statue. Legend has it that Spanish sailors cast the statue overboard during a violent storm, only to have the seas miraculously calm. To this day, mariners pray to her for protection. Above the altar, a delicate 15th-century ivory model ship swings with the wind, believed to reflect the direction of the Golfo degli Angeli’s breeze.

In the adjacent museum, accessed through a quiet cloister, visitors will find additional model boats, ex-voto offerings, a golden crown gifted by Carlo Emanuele I, and the preserved bodies of four Aragonese nobles, plague victims whose remains were found miraculously intact within the church.

Next door looms the neoclassical basilica, whose construction began in 1704. Interrupted by funding shortages, the basilica wasn’t officially completed until 1926.

2. Sea Walls

Alghero’s golden sea walls, built by the Aragonese in the 16th century, are a defining feature of the town’s historic charm. Stretching from Piazza Sulis in the south to Porta a Mare and the marina in the north, the bastioni are topped by a scenic pedestrian walkway offering sweeping views of Capo Caccia across the shimmering sea. Lined with lively restaurants and bars, it’s an ideal place to soak up the relaxed holiday atmosphere.

Begin your stroll at the 22m-high Torre di Sulis on the piazza of the same name, once the southernmost point of the town’s defensive towers. From here, follow the Bastioni Cristoforo Colombo northward, passing the Torre di San Giacomo. Soon you’ll reach the bustling Bastioni Marco Polo, where most of the restaurants are gathered along the sea-facing path.

At the northern end, the Torre della Polveriera and Torre di Sant’Elmo stand watch. The final stretch, Bastioni Magellano, leads to Porta a Mare—Alghero’s second medieval gateway—offering access to Piazza Civica in the heart of the old town. Just beyond lies the Torre della Maddalena, incorporated into the Forte della Maddalena, the last remaining piece of the city’s original landward fortifications.

3. Cattedrale di Santa Maria

Cagliari’s elegant 13th-century cathedral rises above Piazza Palazzo, commanding attention with its striking presence. While the original Gothic structure has mostly vanished—save for the square-based bell tower—the current Pisan-Romanesque facade is a 20th-century reconstruction, added between 1933 and 1938 to evoke medieval grandeur. Inside, the Gothic origins are concealed beneath a lavish baroque makeover dating to the late 17th century. Vivid frescoes adorn the ceilings, and side chapels overflow with sculptural flourishes and gilded ornamentation.

Among them, the third chapel on the right, the Cappella di San Michele, is perhaps the most exuberantly baroque, featuring a dramatic sculpture of St Michael calmly casting devils into hell.

At the cathedral’s central entrance stand two intricately carved stone pulpits, the work of Guglielmo da Pisa (1158–1162). Originally a single structure in Pisa’s Duomo, the pulpit was gifted to Cagliari in 1312 and later separated into two by Domenico Spotorno, the architect responsible for the baroque transformation. The original stone lions that once supported it now flank the altar.

Beneath the altar lies the Santuario dei Martiri (Sanctuary of Martyrs)—the only accessible subterranean chamber among several beneath the cathedral. Hewn from solid rock, this sanctuary holds the relics of 179 martyrs and impresses visitors with its finely detailed sculptures and intricate carvings.

4. Museo Archeologico Nazionale

Of the four museums housed within the Cittadella dei Musei, this one stands out as the undisputed highlight. Sardinia’s foremost archaeological museum offers a fascinating journey through millennia of history, from the early Neolithic period to the Roman era. Its most celebrated exhibits include the imposing Giganti di Monte Prama—colossal stone figures—and an exceptional collection of bronzetti, or bronze figurines. In the absence of written records, these bronzetti offer vital insights into Sardinia’s enigmatic nuraghic civilization.

Around 400 of these small bronzes have been discovered, many in sacred sites, suggesting their use as votive offerings. Despite their size, these figurines—depicting tribal leaders, warriors, hunters, women, and animals—convey striking presence and individuality.

Equally compelling are the Giganti di Monte Prama. Towering over two metres high, these are the only known nuraghic stone statues and rank among the earliest large-scale sculptures in the Mediterranean. Dating from the 8th to 9th centuries BC, they typically portray men as boxers, archers, or wrestlers. Additional examples can be seen at the Museo Civico in Cabras, near their original discovery site.

The ground floor of the museum offers a chronological overview of Sardinia’s past, with artifacts ranging from Neolithic stone tools and obsidian implements to early ceramics and fertility figures. Highlights include a reconstructed tophet—a Phoenician or Carthaginian children’s burial ground—as well as delicate relics such as terracotta vases, glassware, scarabs, and jewelry from ancient cities like Karalis (Cagliari), Sulcis, Tharros, and Nora.

The first and second floors are arranged by geographic region rather than time period and include further treasures: Roman mosaics, statues, funerary busts, inscriptions, and an impressive array of ancient coins. Altogether, the museum presents a vivid and layered portrait of Sardinia’s rich and complex past.

5. Museo Nazionale Sanna

Sassari’s leading museum, set within a stately Palladian-style villa, offers a rich journey through Sardinia’s ancient and cultural heritage. Its standout attraction is the remarkable nuraghic bronzeware—intricately crafted figurines, votive boats, weapons, and jewelry that bring Sardinia’s prehistoric world to life. At the time of writing, the museum was unfortunately closed indefinitely for renovations.

The archaeological exhibits unfold in chronological order, beginning with the Sala Preistorica, where Stone Age and Neolithic artifacts—fossils, bone tools, and pottery shards—are on display. Nearby, finds from the Copper Age sanctuary of Monte d’Accoddi showcase Sardinia’s early spiritual life.

Further along, the museum delves into the island’s megalithic tombs and domus de janas (“fairy houses”), offering glimpses into ancient burial traditions. The Phoenician and Carthaginian rooms reveal finely crafted pottery, gold jewelry, and ceremonial masks, while the Roman section includes oil lamps, ceramics, statues, and personal objects—plus a hefty collection of Roman anchors.

Upstairs, the 1st floor is devoted to the nuraghic civilization, with reconstructions of nuraghi and exhibits from regional archaeological digs. The displays range from everyday ceramics to intricate tools and bronzetti—small bronze figurines of humans and animals that served as both artistic and ritual objects.

A separate ethnographic gallery rounds out the collection with Sardinian folk art, embroidered garments, woven carpets, leather saddlebags, and even old-fashioned terracotta hot-water bottles—offering a charming window into the island’s rural past.

6. Castello Malaspina

Perched on a commanding hilltop with sweeping views, this medieval castle was built in the 12th and 13th centuries by the Malaspina family of Tuscany. Today, only its rugged skeleton remains—massive stone walls and a series of sturdy towers that hint at its former grandeur.

Tucked within the ruins is a modest 14th-century chapel, the Chiesa di Nostra Signora di Regnos Altos, whose interior surprises with a vivid fresco cycle. Painted in the 14th century, the murals portray an array of saints, from St George battling the dragon to St Lawrence enduring martyrdom on the grill—a rare artistic treasure in such a humble setting.

Do note that from November to March, the castle operates on significantly reduced hours, so it’s advisable to call ahead before planning your visit.

7. Chiesa di San Francesco

Alghero’s most impressive church is a striking example of architectural balance. Originally constructed in the 14th century in the Catalan Gothic style, it underwent significant Renaissance renovations following a partial collapse in 1593.

Inside, highlights include an 18th-century polychrome marble altar and a haunting 17th-century wooden sculpture of a gaunt Christ bound to a column—both compelling focal points of devotion and artistry.

Through the sacristy, visitors can step into a serene 14th-century cloister, where 22 sandstone columns support elegant round arches. The warm, buttery hue of the stone adds a glowing softness to the space, making it especially enchanting during summer evening concerts held here. A bell tower completes the setting, enhancing the church’s quiet grandeur.

8. Poetto Beach

Just a short bus ride from the city centre, Cagliari’s Poetto Beach stretches for 7km beyond the green headland of Sant’Elia, famously known as the Sella del Diavolo (Devil’s Saddle). In summer, the beach becomes a lively hub where much of the city’s youth gathers to sunbathe, swim, and enjoy the vibrant seaside scene.

Lined with beach bars and restaurants, Poetto comes alive day and night, offering everything from casual dining to open-air parties. Water sports are a major draw too—canoes and paddleboards are available for rent at the beach clubs.

Getting there is simple: hop on bus PF or PQ from Piazza Matteotti for a quick and easy ride to this popular coastal escape.

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