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Kyoto

Kyoto is old Japan writ large: a timeless city where serene temples, exquisite gardens, traditional teahouses, and elusive geisha weave together the essence of a bygone era.

1. Nishiki Market

The covered Nishiki Market (Nishiki-kōji Ichiba) is one of Kyoto’s culinary gems, often called Kyoto no daidokoro—Kyoto’s kitchen—by locals. This bustling market is where the city’s top chefs and discerning food lovers source the freshest ingredients for authentic Kyoto cuisine.

As you stroll its narrow, covered lanes, you’ll encounter stalls brimming with everything from barrels of tsukemono (pickled vegetables) and delicate Japanese sweets to pungent wasabi salt and fresh sashimi skewers. The market can get quite crowded, especially at peak times, so visiting early or later in the afternoon offers a more leisurely experience. While free samples tempt many, remember that eating while walking is frowned upon, and always ask permission before photographing any stall.

History
Located in central Kyoto, just north of Shijō-dōri, Nishiki Market has been a hub for commerce since the 14th century. Originally a wholesale fish market during the Edo period (1603–1868), it transitioned into a retail food market as Japan modernized. Today, it focuses on local products like tsukemono, tea, rice, seaweed, and fresh fish, while also evolving into a popular destination for visitors, with souvenir shops now nestled among the food stalls.

What to Eat
Nishiki offers a treasure trove of delights: try soymilk donuts, hand-baked bean crackers, eel rolls, and takotamago—tiny octopus heads stuffed with quail eggs on sticks. If you’re unsure about buying, free samples are often available to help you decide.

Beyond food, don’t miss Aritsugu, a renowned craftsman producing some of the finest chef knives in the world. Watch the meticulous sharpening process as artisans hone each blade to perfection using a giant round stone—a true spectacle for any culinary enthusiast.

2. Enryaku-ji

Perched atop the 848m-high Hiei-zan, the Enryaku-ji complex offers a serene escape from Kyoto’s urban pace, immersing visitors in a sprawling world of temples and ancient forests. It’s an ideal half-day outing for hiking, exploring historic temples, and soaking up breathtaking views of surrounding mountains and Lake Biwa (Biwa-ko).

Founded in 788 by Saichō (Dengyō-daishi), the founder of the Tendai Buddhist school, Enryaku-ji grew into a powerful religious center with around 3,000 buildings and thousands of sōhei (warrior monks) at its peak. However, in 1571, Oda Nobunaga, aiming to consolidate power, razed much of the complex and its defenders. Today, visitors can still explore three main pagodas and around 120 smaller temples.

The complex is divided into three main areas:

  • Tōtō (Eastern Pagoda Section): Home to the Kompon Chū-dō (Primary Central Hall), the most important building, where the flames on three dharma lamps have burned continuously for over 1,200 years. The Daikō-dō (Great Lecture Hall) here features life-sized wooden statues of founders of various Buddhist schools. This area caters well to groups, with large parking spaces.

  • Saitō (Western Pagoda Section): Known for its atmospheric stone paths winding through misty forests, temples, and the sound of distant gongs. It houses the Shaka-dō, dating back to 1595, which contains a rare statue of the Historical Buddha (Shaka Nyorai). Visitors need to keep their ticket from the Tōtō section to enter here.

  • Yokawa Section: Located 4 km from Saitō, accessible by bus. Its Chū-dō hall, originally built in 848, has been rebuilt multiple times after fires, most recently in 1971. Visiting all three sections calls for a full day’s exploration.

Getting There:
The most scenic route combines train, cable car, and funicular (ropeway) starting from Demachiyanagi Station via the Eizan line to Yase Hieizanguchi. Note that the funicular does not operate in winter (early December to mid-March). Alternatively, take the JR Kosei line from Kyoto Station to Heizan Sakamoto Station and then a bus to the Sakamoto cable car, which runs year-round. Direct buses from Sanjō Keihan or Kyoto stations are faster and cheaper options.

From the funicular station, a 2.2 km hike through forest leads to the Tōtō section. Otherwise, a short walk connects to the bus station for frequent buses running between all three sections.

A simple canteen near the Enryaku-ji Bus Center offers noodle dishes for visitors needing a quick bite.

3. Kiyomizu-dera

Kiyomizu-dera is one of Kyoto’s most vibrant and beloved temples, perched on a hillside with sweeping views over the city basin. While it may not offer the quiet solitude found in some other temples, it beautifully showcases the dynamic spirit of Japanese faith and culture. For the latest details and a helpful guide on how to pray here, the temple’s official website is an excellent resource. Please note the Main Hall is currently undergoing renovations and may be partially covered, though it remains accessible to visitors.

Originally founded in 798, the current structures date back to 1633. Affiliated with the Hossō school of Buddhism from Nara, Kiyomizu-dera has withstood centuries of religious shifts in Kyoto and now stands as one of the city’s iconic landmarks. Expect crowds, especially during the popular spring and autumn seasons.

The impressive Hondō (Main Hall) features a large verandah supported by towering pillars, extending dramatically over the hillside. Just below the hall lies Otowa-no-taki waterfall, where visitors sip sacred waters believed to grant health and longevity.

Within the temple grounds, several other halls and shrines await exploration. At Jishu-jinja Shrine, located up the steps behind the Main Hall, visitors test their luck in love by trying to walk about 18 meters between two stones with their eyes closed. Success means your romantic wish will come true—though a guide can help if needed.

Before entering the main precinct, be sure to visit the Tainai-meguri, located just north of the pagoda near the entrance. For a small donation (¥100), step into the symbolic “womb” of a female bodhisattva in a dimly lit tunnel. At the journey’s end, spin a rock to make a wish—but we won’t spoil the experience by revealing more.

The steep Chawan-zaka (Teapot Lane) approach to the temple is lined with charming shops selling Kyoto crafts, local snacks, and souvenirs—perfect for a leisurely stroll.

Check the temple website for the schedule of special night-time illuminations held in spring and autumn, which add a magical atmosphere to an already unforgettable visit.

4. Chion-in

Chion-in is a sprawling complex of soaring buildings, spacious courtyards, and tranquil gardens, serving as the headquarters of the Jōdo sect—the largest school of Buddhism in Japan. As Kyoto’s most popular pilgrimage temple, it’s a lively hub of religious activity and a must-visit for those drawn to grand, historic sites.

Founded in 1234 on the spot where Hōnen, the revered founder of Jōdo (Pure Land) Buddhism, taught and eventually passed away, the temple is steeped in spiritual significance. The oldest surviving buildings date from the 17th century and showcase impressive architecture.

The San-mon gate, a magnificent two-storey structure, is the largest temple gate in Japan. The vast Miei-dō Hall (Main Hall), which houses an image of Hōnen, is currently closed for restoration and expected to reopen after 2020. Nearby, the Dai Hōjō hall connects to Miei-dō by a famous ‘nightingale’ floor—its wooden boards designed to chirp underfoot, acting as a natural security system to alert against intruders.

Just southeast of the main hall, climb a flight of steps to find the temple’s giant bell, cast in 1633 and weighing an astonishing 70 tonnes. It holds the distinction of being the largest bell in Japan and is ceremonially rung 108 times by monks on New Year’s Eve to cleanse away worldly desires.

Chion-in also features two beautiful gardens: the Hōjō garden, laid out in the traditional chisen kaiyūshiki style with a central pond, and the Yuzen-en, a contemplative karesansui or dry landscape garden—perfect spots for reflection amid the temple’s grand atmosphere.

5. Gion

Gion, Kyoto’s famed entertainment and geisha district, lies along the eastern bank of the Kamo-gawa River. Originally thriving as a cluster of teahouses serving visitors to the nearby Yasaka-jinja Shrine, by the mid-18th century Gion had blossomed into the city’s largest pleasure quarter.

Today, the best way to soak in Gion’s timeless charm is an evening stroll through its atmospheric streets. Lantern-lit traditional restaurants and teahouses dating back to the 17th century line the main artery, Hanami-kōji Street, which runs north to south and cuts across Shijō-dōri.

The southern end of Hanami-kōji features many exclusive venues where geisha entertain, including the cultural heart at Gion Corner and the Gion Kōbu Kaburen-jō Theatre (祇園甲部歌舞練場).

If you start at Shijō-dōri and walk north along Hanami-kōji, then take your third left, you’ll enter Shimbashi (also called Shirakawa Minami-dōri). This picturesque street is especially stunning in the evening or during cherry blossom season. A little further north are Shinmonzen-dōri and Furumonzen-dōri, which run east-west and are lined with historic houses, art galleries, and antique shops — though don’t expect bargain prices here.

Exploring these lanes offers a glimpse of old Kyoto’s refined culture and artisanal heritage, making Gion a must-visit for anyone wanting to experience the city’s unique blend of tradition and elegance.

6. Nijō-jō

Nijō Castle stands as a powerful symbol of the military dominance wielded by Japan’s Tokugawa shogunate. Located in northwest Kyoto, its massive stone walls and fortified ramparts command the surrounding area, shielding an exquisite palace and serene gardens within.

Constructed in 1603 as the official Kyoto residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun, the castle was designed to showcase his authority and subtly assert the decline of imperial power. Security was paramount: the palace’s famous nightingale floors chirp and squeak with every step, thwarting would-be intruders, while secret chambers allowed guards to keep watch unseen.

Passing through the impressive Kara-mon gate, visitors enter Ninomaru Palace, a complex of five connected buildings comprising numerous chambers. Among these, the Ōhiroma Yon-no-Ma (Fourth Chamber) captivates with its spectacular screen paintings. Surrounding the palace is the beautiful Ninomaru Garden, a masterpiece crafted by the renowned tea master and landscape architect Kobori Enshū.

To enhance your visit, audio guides are available for ¥500, and daily English guided tours run at 10:30am and 12:30pm for ¥2000 (excluding entry fees). For a quieter experience, try arriving just after opening or late in the afternoon to avoid the crowds.

7. Shōren-in

Shōren-in Temple is easy to spot thanks to the giant camphor trees just outside its walls, yet many visitors overlook it in favor of more famous nearby temples — a real missed opportunity. This intimate sanctuary offers a peaceful retreat, highlighted by a beautifully maintained landscape garden that’s perfect for a quiet stroll.

For an extra treat, you can enjoy a cup of green tea while soaking in the serene garden views (¥500; available at the reception office, though not offered during summer).

Known locally as Awata Palace after its neighbourhood, Shōren-in was originally the residence of the Tendai school’s chief abbot. Although founded in 1150, the current buildings date from 1895. Inside, the main hall features elegant sliding screens adorned with paintings from the 16th and 17th centuries, offering a glimpse into Japan’s rich artistic heritage.

8. Daigo-ji

Daigo-ji is a UNESCO World Heritage site nestled in Kyoto’s Daigo district, on the eastern flank of the Higashiyama mountains. Easily reached via the Tōzai subway line, it’s an ideal half-day escape for those wanting to combine temple exploration with a bit of hiking away from the city center’s busiest spots — especially outside the peak cherry blossom season in early April.

Founded in 874 by the monk Shobo, Daigo-ji’s name means ‘the ultimate essence of milk,’ symbolizing the highest of the five stages of Buddha’s teachings, a concept inspired by traditional Indian milk preparations.

The temple complex is spread over two levels: Shimo Daigo (lower) and Kami Daigo (upper). While much of the lower complex was destroyed in the 15th century, the iconic five-story pagoda (Garan), built in 951, still stands proudly as Kyoto’s oldest surviving wooden structure.

In the late 1500s, the powerful warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi revitalized Daigo-ji with major reconstruction, making it a key temple of the Shingon Buddhist sect. The subtemple Sampō-in showcases lavish Kanō school paintings and an exquisite garden, exemplifying the period’s artistic splendor.

To fully experience Daigo-ji, plan for a mix of temple visits and hiking: from Sampō-in, a steep one-hour climb leads you to Kami Daigo atop Daigo-yama, following a scenic route lined with cherry trees, passing through the Niō-mon gate, and entering tranquil forest paths.

Getting there is straightforward: take the Tōzai subway line from central Kyoto to Daigo station (ensure your train is headed for Rokujizō, not Hama-Ōtsu), then walk east toward the mountains for about 10 minutes, following clear signage to the temple.

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