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Puglia

In Puglia, everything an Italophile could wish for is found in abundance — ancient towns, ornate churches, endless olive groves, shimmering olive-green seas, and cuisine that rivals the best in Italy.

1. Castel del Monte

From miles away, you’ll spot Castel del Monte, a strikingly precise geometric structure perched atop a hill. Its mysterious, perfectly octagonal shape makes it one of southern Italy’s most famous landmarks and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built by Frederick II, its purpose remains unclear—there’s no nearby town or strategic crossroads, and it lacks typical defensive features like a moat, drawbridge, arrow slits, or trapdoors for pouring boiling oil on attackers.

Some theories suggest that, reflecting mid-13th-century beliefs in geometric symbolism, the octagon represented the union of the circle and the square—symbols of divine perfection (infinite) and human perfection (finite). Thus, the castle stands as a celebration of the connection between humanity and God.

The castle features eight octagonal towers. Inside, interconnected rooms showcase decorative marble columns and fireplaces, with doorways and windows framed in coral-like stone. Several towers contain washing rooms believed to house some of Europe’s earliest flushing toilets—a testament to Frederick II’s admiration for cleanliness, influenced by the Arab world. Audio guides (€3) are highly recommended to enrich your visit.

If you’re visiting without a car, take the Ferrovia Bari-Nord train from Bari to Andria, then catch bus number 6 from Andria station to the castle (a 35-minute ride, with five daily services from April to October). Castel del Monte lies about 35 km from Trani. While there’s no on-site parking, a nearby lot charges €5 for parking, with a €1 shuttle service covering the steep 500-meter climb to the castle.

2. Cathedral

Mosaics, skulls, crypts, and a blend of biblical and tropical imagery make Otranto’s cathedral unlike any other in Italy. Built by the Normans in the 11th century, it combines Romanesque, Byzantine, and early Christian styles with Norman touches and has undergone several restorations since. Its crowning glory is a vast 12th-century mosaic covering the entire floor—a stunning tree of life balanced on the backs of two elephants.

Created in 1165 by a young monk named Pantaleone, the mosaic offers a remarkable fusion of classical mythology, religion, and superstition. It depicts figures like Adam and Eve, Diana the Huntress, Hercules, King Arthur, Alexander the Great, alongside a wild menagerie of monkeys, snakes, and sea monsters.

While most visitors are captivated by the floor, many overlook the beautiful wooden coffered ceiling above.

The floor’s vibrant beauty contrasts starkly with the eerie Cappella Mortiri (Chapel of the Dead), where the bones and skulls of 813 Otranto martyrs—beheaded by invading Turks in 1480—are displayed in seven tall glass cases. The stone where the execution allegedly took place is preserved behind the altar.

If the sight of bones doesn’t unnerve you, the cathedral also features a dungeon-like crypt waiting to be explored.

3. Basilica di San Nicola

Bari’s iconic basilica was among the first Norman churches built in southern Italy and stands as a striking—if solidly square—example of Pugliese-Romanesque architecture. Dating from the 12th century, it was originally constructed to house the relics of St Nicholas—better known today as Father Christmas—which were taken from Turkey in 1087 by local fishermen. Today, the basilica remains an important pilgrimage site for both Catholics and Orthodox Christians.

St Nicholas’s remains, believed to exude a miraculous myrrh with healing powers, rest in a beautifully vaulted crypt shrine. Above, the interior is vast and simple, featuring a gilded 17th-century wooden ceiling. The magnificent 13th-century ciborium over the altar is the oldest in Puglia. Nearby, the Museo Nicolaiano displays related treasures such as chalices, vestments, and crests.

4. Basilica di Santa Croce

It almost seems as if hallucinating stonemasons were at work on the basilica’s façade—sheep, dodos, cherubs, and strange beasts writhe together in a magnificent, swirling allegorical feast. Throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, a team of artists led by Giuseppe Zimbalo tirelessly embellished the building to this dazzling effect. Inside, the style is more traditionally Baroque and well worth exploring. It’s worth remembering, though, that the basilica was built on land once belonging to expelled Jewish families.

Zimbalo’s influence extends beyond the basilica to the former Convento dei Celestini, just north of it, now home to the Palazzo del Governo, the local government headquarters. Keep an eye out for his profile carved into the basilica’s façade.

5. Museo Faggianos

Descend through Lecce’s rich layers of history in this captivating home-turned-museum, where sewer excavations uncovered a remarkable archaeological treasure trove. The deepest finds date back to the 5th-century BC Messapii culture; from there, you ascend through Roman crypts, medieval walls, Jewish symbols, and Knights Templar insignia in the rooftop tower.

The house itself dates to Templar times (12th century) and once served as a convent. Beneath it lie tombs, a granary, a well, cisterns, and secret underground escape routes—all open and mostly accessible to visitors today. This is a must-visit for history enthusiasts, amateur archaeologists, and those who love exploring hidden spaces.

6. Museo Archeologico di Santa Scolastica

Housed within a well-preserved 16th-century defensive bastion, this excellent museum reopened in late 2018, offering a superbly curated exploration of Bari’s historic origins. Interactive displays bring to life a fascinating timeline, spanning the city’s Bronze Age and Hellenistic periods. Visitors can wander illuminated walkways that traverse the extensive remains of a medieval church dedicated to St Paul and St John. A standout feature of the museum is its impressive collection of sepulchral funerary slabs dating back to Roman times.

7. Museo Nazionale Archeologico di Taranto

Tucked away on a quiet side street in Taranto’s new town, this archaeological museum ranks among Italy’s most important, focusing primarily on the ancient city of Taras (Taranto). It boasts the world’s largest collection of Greek terracotta figures. Also on display are exquisite 1st-century BC glassware, classic black-and-red Attic vases, and dazzling gold and jewelry from Magna Graecia, including a remarkable 4th-century BC bronze and terracotta crown.

8. Tempio di San Giovanni al Sepolcro

This 12th-century church, a solid brown mass of Norman stone shaped in the distinctive circular plan favored by the Templars, is an evocative and austere structure. Vestiges of medieval frescoes cling to the walls, while glimpses into the crypt below add to its mysterious atmosphere. Once a favored stop for Crusaders journeying to and from the Holy Land, the church’s tranquil gardens at the rear are not to be missed.

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